"So much up!" This is the only comment our taciturn host makes when we explain our plan for the day. Indeed, our first climb starts steeply. And it lasts for hours without a break! This is a bit of a test for us. Neither of us has ever tried to push his bike fully loaded up a serious hill and we don't know how the body will react. In fact it's pretty manageable. With the easiest gear ratio on, we are able to hold a steady pace with enough breath left to keep the conversation going. It helps for sure that the road is paved and in good conditions.
In contrast with Bangladesh where a cold fog would always stick around until noon, the sun is shining brightly in a perfectly blue sky. The temperature is just perfect for cycling!
On the way we chitchat with kids on the side of the road. Several are of the War ethnic group, related to the Khasi, but with their own language. We are told that 80% of the Khasi people - a large group in Meghalaya - are Christians. Later in the day, we meet kids of the Pnar ethny following the Punta faith. A preview of the entanglement of ethnies and faith in the North East India states.
All kind of Christian crosses are on display in most of the villages we ride through. Exotic creches are also reminding us that Christmas was only two days ago. There is something surrealistic to the scene, especially after exiting Muslim Bangladesh. Maybe we would be less surprised had we read a guidebook beforehand...
The landscape changes drasticly as we climb. The lush forest gives way to rolling hills somehow reminiscent of Scotland. Higher up, the hills become more arid, bearing some ressemblance with places in central Asia.
At the end of the day, we enter a mountain town called Jawai: it looks like we've reached the very top. We've covered a small 50 km but decide nevertheless to call it a day! Considering the challenges of the road we feel pretty good with ourselves. We enquire for lodging and are directed to a hilltop building where managers of the road building company are hosted. Phone calls are made and we are allowed to stay for free. Our first mountain day is officially over!
We have a few very difficult hours the next morning on the way to Khalerihat. The quality of the road is terrible. It's saturated with trucks, and winds from one stone quary to the next. Dust is blown around in clouds.
Then, after Khalerihat the traffic lightens, the elevation suddenly falls and a spectacular downhill brings us back into warm and lush surroundings. We enter the heart of the Jantia hills, a beautiful area with sharp ridges thick with bright green jungle forests. Wilderness seems to be only a few meters away from the road.
The downhill finally ends when the road meets the crystal clear waters of a mountain river. A new climb starts here. The premises of the sunset become visible but we decide to disregard as "too early" or "not great" the few crapy places where lodging could be found. When the night fall we realise how foolish we are. The road is climbing on and on, unrelentently. The roadsides are steep and impossible to penetrate. Incoming traffic is starting to blind us.
Eventually, we reach a flatter area where small huts are offering food to travellers. But still no lodging. Guessing the existence of a village closeby, Pierre leaves his bike and goes for an exploratory walk, the headlamp coming in handy. Mission acomplished! The village is called Ratacherra. A very friendly Khasi family offers us to stay under a construction tent next to their house. Tea and biscuits are offered to us and we are given a place to cook a big bag of pasta. Yummy!
The elder kid, around 8 years old, speaks good English and is especially bright. He studies as an intern in a small town lower down the road. Not so far away, but the road conditions render daily commuting impossible. When he is older, he explains to us he would like to be a doctor or a pastor. Let's hope he goes for the first choice!
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