Kipling Territory

Saturday, 26 January 2013

Moulmein - also spelled Mawlamyine - is a laid-back coastal town rightly described by our LP friends as a "unique combination of beauty and melancholy". The place sits at the mouth of the Salween river, which originates in the Himalayas. It has serious historical credential as it once was the capital of British Burma. It's also the setting of poems by Rudyard Kipling. Today, the old crumbling buildings are still reminiscent of a glorious past, but we are sorry to hear that the Salween is threatened by huge Chinese dam projects.

Anyway, we like the place a lot (Pierre gives it a "coup coeur" ranking). We arrived in town early today and took a room at the Cinderella hotel around noon, just before the warmest hours. The hotel is first class (wifi in the room, terrace, nice view on a giant Pagoda). The kind of place that will make us stick around until the 12 PM check-out limit tomorrow!

The previous two days have been busy. We left Rangoon on the 25th and caught a bus to Bago 100 km to the North. This first bus trip gives us a bit of leeway with our Burmese visa expiring on the 31st. Besides, we already biked most of the road a first time on our way down to Rangoon. When we step out of the bus we love our bikes even more!

The end of the day is a new and interesting experience: unable to find a suitable place to crash under the stars we end up biking nearly three hours in the dark until Kyaikto. Luckily, the visibility is pretty good thanks to the full moon. Be reassured : we are also carrying headlamps to be visible ourselves. The temperature is pleasantly cool (midday heat is becoming a challenge) and we rush through the night as in an hallucinated dream.

Kyaikto is the town from which the famous Golden Rock can be reached. This gold-covered boulder topped by a pagoda is one of the holiest place in Burma, right after the Shwedagong pagoda in Rangoon. The boulder is sitting on the edge of a cliff in a seemingly precarious equilibrium. Crowds of pelgrims gather at its foot.

Needless to say this is an important spot on our route. A double deception is awaiting us. First, despite Pierre's courageous attempts at convincing the authorities, we are not allowed to climb the hill by bicycle. instead we have to patiently pile up in a truck with the masses.

Second deception, once at the top and after an additional 45min walk, we discover that the holy rock is completely bundled in brownish materials and pretty much invisible. There is still the view and the devotion of the pilgrims to look at - many of them agglomerating in the rare shady spots - but somehow it feels a bit like a music festival with no music.

We come down much later than expected, and for the second day in a row end up biking until 9PM, time at which we reach Thaton. On the way, when dusk settles down, a puncture convinces Pierre that it's about time to change his deformed rear tire. What a day!

In two days our route to Thailand will bring us into Karen territories. Beyond a point, the area is strictly forbidden to tourists. Hopefully our permit will get us through!