Perhentian Time Out

Wednesday, 20 March 2013

From Kuala Krai, it’s an easy ride to Kuala Besut, a small coastal village who’s main purpose if to ship tourists back and forth to the Perhentian Islands. These islands are the reason why I’ve been crossing to the East coast so far North. They are renown indeed for the beauty of the beaches, the transparency of the waters and the abundance of sea life. The perfect place to spend a few lazy days before completing the last stretch down to Singapore.

Northern tip of Perhentian Kecil

As I discover, bicycles are not allowed on board of the speedboats. Besides, there are no roads on the islands. Fortunately the owner of the travel agency that sells the boat tickets offers to keep the bicycle for me. Abandoning my faithful companion behind leaves me a bit torn by guilt. But you have to do what you have to do. So here I am walking clumsily to the embarkation point with my five cycling bags in my two hands.

Arriving on D'Lagoon beach

I opt for the smaller of the two island, Perhentian Kecil, which is said to have more of a backpacker vibe. I spend two nights in a dormitory on Long Beach, the arrival point of the speadboat. It’s not my first choice, but the area is already packed (although the season is just starting here) and walking in the sand from guesthouse to guesthouse is just too tiring with all my bags. In the morning - after one of those famous beach parties - I wake up too late to move out of the place. But eventually I find the perfect dream spot to spend the next five days.

View on tiny D'Lagoon beach from my bungalow

At the Northern top of the island, there is a small isolated beach called D’Lagoon with a handful of basic wooden bungalows overlooking the sea. The friendly owners hold a restaurant (the only place to eat around if you are not into coconuts) and give advice on the best snorkelling spots. Close by two other beautiful small beaches are reachable on foot. They are fittingly named “Adam and Eve” and “Turtle” beach. This is just what I was looking for. A pleasant routine establishes itself. Twice a day I head out for long snorkelling trips alternating among the three beaches. The wildlife is spectacular. Fishes of all colours and sizes are swimming around within reach. The first time I see a back-tailed shark a few meters away I am truly startled. But my most magical encounter happens with a giant turtle that suddenly appears below me one afternoon. I had no idea these creatures could be so big. It’s nearly my size! Unafraid, it swims around me with grace for a minute or two before disappearing away. I am left breathless.

Turtle beach